Lard and waxes:
Shea butter:
It is a good cell regenerator. It is rich in vitamins A (with anti-ageing effect for the skin), E (antioxidant) and F (revitalising damaged hair and skin). It is also rich in collagen (which has anti-ageing properties). Moisturising, nourishing, antibiotic and antifungal. Prevents hair frizz.
It is a lumpy product, to make it a little more creamy or emulsified, melt about 4 tablespoons in a bain-marie over low heat and heat a little distilled water in a saucepan to bring it to the same temperature as the melted butter. Pour the butter into a mixer bowl and gradually add the hot water while whisking the mixture. For creamy, about 3 tablespoons of water. To make it more liquid, 5-6 tablespoons of water. Once the mixture is whipped, put it in the fridge and leave it for about an hour.
Cocoa butter:
It has similar properties to shea butter, but is less grainy.
The emulsion preparation would be the same as for shea butter (see above).
Beeswax:
Emollient, binder and thickener. I recommend the yellow wax, as the white wax is more aesthetic (the creams are whiter, similar to commercial creams) but more rigid, so the texture is not ideal from my point of view.
Oils:
Coconut oil:
It is moisturising, nourishing, with a repairing and revitalising effect on the hair, prevents frizz. The 50% in this oil is lauric acid, which easily penetrates the hair protein. In addition, it rinses out well under water. It is rich in antioxidant vitamin E. It also has antibiotic, antiviral and antifungal power. It works well for acne and oily skin (restores neutral pH). It has a certain sun protection effect (blocks 20% UVA rays). Aids tissue repair. Binds well with the aqueous phase (easy to emulsify). Works well as a night cream, lip balm or make-up remover, if used alone. In toothpastes it has an oral disinfectant effect. It is also useful as a treatment for burns (as if it were petroleum jelly), as it is soothing, moisturising and healing. It prevents stretch marks and cellulite. It resists well to high temperatures and oxidation as it contains many saturated fatty acids, which are more stable than unsaturated fatty acids. This oil is solid / creamy at a temperature below 25°. This is why it is sold in jars and not in bottles. Always buy it organic and cold-pressed, its quality will be higher.
Olive oil:
It contains a lot of vitamin E with a high antioxidant power. It is very nourishing, regenerative and resistant to high temperatures and oxidation. Therefore, if you cannot store your creams in a cool area in summer, I recommend that you replace other types of oil in your formulas with this one. Make sure it is organic, extra virgin and cold pressed.
Avocado oil:
Similar properties to olive oil.
Argan oil:
It has a high linoleic acid content (anti-inflammatory). It is bactericidal and fungicidal. Very moisturising and suitable for oily skin and acne (controls excess sebum). It is very nourishing for the skin and has a good anti-wrinkle effect, it also helps to remove skin blemishes. It has a good soothing effect if used as a post-sun balm. Antioxidant, neutralises free radicals. Regenerating effect for skin diseases (useful for people with psoriasis for example) or to remove scars. Useful for nourishing and moisturising hair, giving it shine and removing dandruff. Can be used as an eye contour.
Sweet almond oil:
It is rich in antioxidants and vitamin E, and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Rapidly absorbed due to its emollient properties. Soothing and anti-stress. Reduces wrinkles. Protects and moisturises the skin. Thickens eyelashes, improves puffiness and dark circles, so it is useful to add it in eye contour recipes. Strengthens nails. Prevents stretch marks. It heals burns and eliminates skin blemishes. It also has a certain sun protection power.
Linseed oil:
Anti-inflammatory, healing and regenerative. Ideal for application on burns. Antioxidant, anti-aging. Removes spots, redness and wrinkles. Easily absorbed. It is ideal for people with acne. Gives luminosity to the skin.
Jojoba oil:
Regulates sebum production: for oily skin, it reduces sebum production. If the skin is dry, it increases it. Also very useful for regulating sebum production on the scalp. Takes a little longer to absorb than other oils, so it is best used in the evening.
Rosehip oil:
It is regenerative, very useful to combat wrinkles, stretch marks and scars. Ideal for delicate skins.
Recommended oil types according to skin type:
- Normal to combination skin: jojoba, rose hip, olive, coconut
- Dry skin: sweet almond, avocado, argan oil, argan oil
- Oily, seborrhoeic/acne-prone skin: flax, jojoba
- Mature skin: argan, coconut, rose hip
- Blemished skin: argan oil, rosehip oil
- Irritated skin: coconut, flax, argan oil
Anti-ageing additives:
- Soluble in oily media:
Vegetable squalane:
Soluble in oil phase.
Similar to hyaluronic acid. Combats wrinkles, prevents ageing, eliminates blemishes, moisturises the skin, soothing, repellent and purifying.
Coenzyme Q10:
Soluble in oil phase.
It is antioxidant and anti-ageing (chrono- and photo-ageing). Protects against free radicals caused by UVA and UVB rays.
Retinol (vitamin A):
Soluble in oil phase.
Potent anti-ageing agent. Use as a night cream as it is photosensitive and can be inactivated by the sun.
- Soluble in aqueous media:
Hyaluronic acid:
Soluble in aqueous phase.
Wrinkle filling, anti-inflammatory, healing. Low molecular weight penetrates deeper into the skin. It is more for deep wrinkles and anti-ageing effect. High molecular weight penetrates less, is more moisturising and is better for superficial wrinkles.
Provitamin B5 (panthenol):
Soluble in aqueous phase.
Moisturising, skin regenerating, antioxidant, anti-irritation and anti-ageing. Polishes the hair and improves frizz. Put between 0.02% and 0.5% of the solution. It is the major constituent of coenzyme A. Put between 0,02% and 0,5% of the solution.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid):
Soluble in aqueous phase if they are powders that are reconstituted with water or in oily phase if they are liposomal or reconstituted in a carrier oil. The most practical way is to buy it in powder form and reconstitute it ourselves as needed.
Powerful anti-ageing product, promotes collagen synthesis. Eliminates skin blemishes. It is preferable to use it at night as it is photosensitive and can be inactivated by the sun.
Preservatives:
- Soluble in oily media:
Vitamin E:
Antioxidant and preservative. Use 3 drops /100 ml approx.
Liquid extract of propolis:
Antioxidant and bactericide / fungicide. Preservative. Cicatrizant. Apply 3 drops / 100 ml approx.
- Soluble in aqueous media:
Leucidal:
Preservative and moisturiser, soluble in aqueous phase. Set at 2-3%.
Grapefruit seed extract:
Preservative. Set at 0.6 to 1%.
Other raw materials:
Maize or tapioca starch:
Thickener, absorbs moisture.
Xanthan gum :
Gelling, thickening, moisturising.
Zinc oxide
Healing, UV protection. In creams, put 2-10%
Sodium bicarbonate:
Antibacterial because it alters the pH, prevents bad odour, absorbs moisture.
Essential oils:
As I have already mentioned in other articles, from my point of view, essential oils should be considered as if they were medicines. Without the supervision of a person trained in aromatherapy, I do not recommend using them. If they are used, it should be for therapeutic purposes, and certainly not for perfuming. In fact, you will find that I rarely use them in my recipes.
I give you here, as an example, the properties of some of the most frequently used essential oils, to give you an idea of the great power they have. However, I would like to remind you that you should not use them unless advised by a professional. It is not the purpose of this website to prescribe or recommend essential oil blends.
Tea tree essential oil:
Antibacterial, antifungal, anti-dandruff, anti-lice. Helps against insect bites. Application with carrier oil: acne spots, wounds, nail fungus, warts, herpes. Diluted in liquid: as mouthwash, mosquito repellent, household cleaner, disinfectant for bathrooms, carpets, laundry. Do not swallow. Do not use in children and pregnant women. There are doubts whether some of the substances it contains are endocrine disruptors.
Peppermint essential oil:
Antiseptic, antibiotic, antifungal, antiviral. Analgesic. Helps the production of saliva in toothpastes and mouthwashes. Helps regulate oil production. Deodorant, refreshing, reduces hair loss. To prevent car sickness: dilute 2-3 drops in a tablespoon of carrier oil of almond, argan, olive, etc. and apply behind the wrist. For migraine relief: dilute 2 drops in a tablespoon of carrier oil and massage on the forehead. Treats dandruff and lice (a few drops can be added to shampoo). To stimulate circulation and reduce pain or swelling after a stroke: add 2-3 drops to a tablespoon of carrier oil and massage in. To improve digestion after meals: put 2-3 drops in 200 ml of water. To treat nasal congestion: inhaled in a mist, 2-3 drops, or in a diffuser. To treat nail fungus: 2-3 drops diluted in a tablespoon of argan or coconut oil). To improve fatigue and mental exhaustion: used in a diffuser. To reduce fever: add 2-3 drops to a cold compress. Not for use in neurological diseases. Do not get in eyes. Not for use in pregnancy and children.
Lavender officinalis essential oil:
Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antifungal. Analgesic and sedative. Anti-spasmodic. Application by diluting 2-3 drops in a tablespoon of carrier oil: for sleeping (apply behind the ears or on the pillow). For treating skin diseases such as acne, eczema, psoriasis, burns, insect bites (can also be used as a repellent). Application diluted with carrier oil: tonic for hair growth, for headache (massage with a wet compress and 2 drops), insomnia or anxiety (in diffuser or in the bath water), menstrual regulation (by mixing 5 drops with 30 ml carrier oil and massaging the pelvis), for flu (in diffuser), asthma or bronchial problems (in diffuser or in the bath water, or by mixing 5 drops with 30 ml carrier oil and massaging the chest). Do not use during pregnancy or children. There are doubts whether some of the substances contained are hormone disruptors.
Lemon essential oil:
Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, relieves coughs, stimulates lymphatic drainage, anti-allergic. Neutralises unpleasant odours. Direct application diluted in carrier oil: to treat warts and corns. For treating anaemia and hypertension (in diffuser), joint pain or improving circulation (diluted in carrier oil or bath water). For fever (2-3 drops in a cold compress). For colds, coughs or loss of voice (steam inhalation or chest rub diluted in carrier oil). For fatigue (diffuser or in bath water). For treating nail fungus (mix with almond oil). For mouth ulcers (gargle). For oily hair (2-3 drops in shampoo) or oily skin (2-3 drops in 30 ml of water). Insect repellent (in diffuser or make a spray by putting 2-3 drops in 30 ml of water and spray on furniture. To remove scar tissue (mix with argan or rosehip oil and massage).
Eucalyptus essential oil:
Antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic, activates circulation, insect repellent, for muscular pain, migraine, asthma, cough, herpes. Direct application: herpes and chicken pox. Can also be used to freshen the dustbin. Diluted: muscular pains (massage mixed with carrier oil), throat or respiratory problems (vaporiser). Disinfectant (10 drops in 1 litre of water and spray). Avoid during pregnancy. Do not use in case of high blood pressure or epilepsy. Avoid if using homeopathy.
